Гренобъл (Grenoble)

В медиите напоследък се обсъжда доста „тежката“ работа на шофьорите, „лошият“ Макрон как иска да им вземе хляба… като им създаде по-добри условия на труд. Но това е друга дълга тема. Времето за шофиране е строго регламентирано, има един електронен уред – тахограф, който го измерва и предупреждава, когато наближава краят му. Всяка седмица има задължителна почивка от 24 или 45 часа, редуват се през седмица, но пък общото време за шофиране за две седмици не трябва да надвишава деветдесет часа, и когато ги достигнеш, независимо кой ден е, не можеш да караш повече до понеделник. Аз така си правя нещата, че времето винаги да ми свършва в петък и събота и неделя да съм свободен. Според колегите ми не мога да си изчислявам правилно времето, така че да ми остава за каране и в събота, за да не ми било скучно… Скучно, на мен, без коментар. Ще напиша някой ден как протича една седмица на международните шофьори, трябва да направя снимки на паркингите, условията, удобствата и неудобствата, защото аз имам малко по-различно виждане за нещата от масовия шофьор.

За първата ми почивка за тази година имах курс за Ля Вулт сю’ Рон (La Voulte sur Rhône), с разтоварване чак в понеделник, а аз пристигнах в събота сутринта и имах два свободни дни. Но градчето е малко, а и няма гара, леко го поотминах и паркирах голямото МПС до близкия по-голям град Валанс (Valence). Няма голям град без гара, даже минава и TGV, френският влак стрела (TGV е абревиатура на Train Grande Vitesse, буквално влак с голяма скорост или високоскоростен влак). За мен паркингът е добър, ако близо до него има гара, нищо друго не ме интересува. Не бях разглеждал и Валанс, но понеже постоянно комуникирам с някого, да живее мобилният интернет, се бях разбрал с една приятелка да се видим в Шамбери. От Валанс има директен влак за Женева, който спира в Гренобъл и Шамбери, и хоп, след два часа бях в Шамбери. Вечерта хванах обратния влак, но понеже имах на разположение цялата неделя, реших да сляза в Гренобъл.

На сутринта се снабдих с карта от рецепцията на хотела, Туристическият им информационен център не работи в неделя, и забродих из града.

Гренобъл (на френски се произнася Грьоньобль) се намира в югозападна Франция, регион Оверн-Рона-Алпи, департамент Изер, като департаментите обикновено носят името на реката, която минава през тях. Жителите са малко над 160 000, но около по-големите градове винаги има много сателитни селища, като с тях голямата градска агломерация нараства до над 660 000 души. Името Гренобъл го помня от публикация в списание Паралели, за което бяхме абонирани вкъщи през… 1983 г. Статията беше за някакви протести, и най-голямо впечатление на соц. децата ни правеше колко добре са облечени „гладните и потиснати“ от капитализма французи.

Градът отвсякъде е обграден с планини, като Кюстендил, само че тук са Алпите. Разходката си започвам от площада пред гарата, и веднага вниманието ми е привлечено от многото велосипеди, не са чак колкото в Холандия, но постепенно навсякъде започват да се увеличават. В България, все още, ако ползваш колело за транспорт, а не за спорт и развлечение, те считат за изпаднал.

Часът е малко след девет, и въпреки че е неделя, хората вече са по улиците. Гренобъл е университетски град с около 50 000 студенти. Университетът е създаден с була на Папа Бенедикт XII през 1339 г., като през 1965 г. е преместен в предградието Жиер (Gières) и е разделен на няколко отделни профилирани университета.

До университета върви високоскоростен трамвай, който спира пред гара Жиер, спирка на регионалните влакове TER (Train Express
Régional), за максимално удобство на студентите. Обикновено последната спирка на регионалните влакове е в друга държава, на местния е в Женева, на този, с който обикалям из Лазурния бряг, е във Вентимиля в Италия. ЖП транспортът е много развит и използван, и никой не смята, че е остарял и на отживяване, както май смятат в България.

Католическа църква Сен Луи, и независимо че е почивен ден, хората грижещи се за чистотата са на работа.

Плас дьо Грьонет с фонтана. Мокро е, края на януари, но не беше студено. Първите сведения за града са от 43 г. пр.н.е., на това място е имало малко галско селище с името Кюляро. Три века по-късно, през 286 г. от н.е., по времето на късната Римска империя, е построена здрава стена около малкия град. Император Грациан в един от походите си прави Кюляро римски град и му дава името си. Градът става Грацианополис през 381 г. През Средновековието името се видоизменя до Греньовол, за да стане днешното Гренобъл.

Плас дю Трибюнал. Редяха някакъв пазар, но следобяд вече нямаше и помен от него. Вляво е Дворецът на Парламента на Дофина. Дофин е титлата на френският престолонаследник.

Срещу двореца е църквата Сен Андре. Градът добива слава, когато през XI век става столица на Дофина на Франция, но през повечето време от историята си е скромен парламентарен и гарнизонов град на границата на Кралството.

В Гренобъл е роден Анри Мари Бейл, нарекъл себе си Стендал. В България е най-известен с романа си „Червено и черно“. Има къща-музей на главната пешеходна улица, който също не работи в неделя, куца им туризма нещо, май, май. Медальонът на тази паметна плоча е дело на Огюст Роден.

Жардин де Виль, Градската градина.

В Градската градина е Мезон дьо л’Интернасиональ, който мисля че е бил старото кметство, сега е библиотека.

Този интересен елемент от градската среда е също толкова и полезен, но за съжаление в съвременната реалност може да бъде счетен за сексистки, защото е изключително и само за мъже. Това е градски писоар.

Фонтанът на Лъва, с интересно съчетание на два материала, както пишеше на табелата му, каменният лъв и бронзовата змия.

През града минава река Изер, за която споменах, че дава името си на департамента. Със сигурност ви е познато името на курорта Вал д’Изер, буквално Долината на Изер. А времето започна да се оправя. Къщите по крайбрежието са в меки пастелни тонове, абсолютно по изискванията на една общинска наредба в България.

Пред Музея на Гренобъл се е извила голяма опашка, последен ден на изложба на египетско изкуство, питах, не раздаваха нищо безплатно.

Фонтанът на трите ордена. Паметник на предреволюционните събития в Гренобъл от 1788 г., които са Бунтът на керемидите и Срещата на генералите на Дофина. Намира се на Плас Нотр Дам.

Катедралата на Гренобъл, Нотр Дам, заклещена между други сгради. Не е впечатляваща като в други френски градове.

Пример за експониране на несъществуващ вече исторически обект, с различни плочи в настилката е отбелязано местоположението на градска порта и стражева кула.

В пешеходната част на града, както на много други места в Европа, улиците са споделени с автомобилите, които трябва да се движат с не повече от 30 км/ч, и платното им за движение е маркирано с тези парапети.

За разнообразие между старите сгради да вмъкна и една по-нова. Три еднакви жилищни блока в композиция, които стърчат над града, виждат се на заглавната снимка.

Пазар на селскостопанските производители. Как още никой не се е сетил да прекръсти Женския пазар в София, намек за дискриминация има в името му.

Плас Клавезон. Един от многото такива малки закътани площадчета с по едно-две кафенета.

Халите. Гренобъл е един от лидерите в Европа в хай-тек индустрията, по-специално в био и нано-технологиите. Световноизвестни компании са се установили тук, Шнайдер Електрик, Хюлет Пакард, Ксерокс, Катерпилар. В миналото е бил известен с производството на ръкавици, като няколко малки фирми ги произвеждат и до днес.

Сградата на Туристически информационен център, който не работи в неделя.

Плас Вердюн и сградата на Музея на изкуствата. На същия площад е и сградата на Префектурата на департамент Изер.

Библиотека д’Етюд. Аз си издирвам такива сгради, строени между ’20-те и ’50-те години на XX век.

В парк Пол Мистрал има няколко монумента. Пред монумента на Съпротивата имаше някакво тържествено събитие. В същия парк се намират и няколко спортни съоръжения, стадион, закрита спортна зала и Кметството. За спорта Гренобъл е познат като домакин на X зимни олимпийски игри през 1968 г. Считан е за столица на Френските Алпи.

В същия парк е и Кулата Пере (Tour de Peret). Огюст Пере е добре познат на архитектите, като експериментатор с бетона. Кулата в момента е в реставрация, трябва да бъде готова за стогодишнината ѝ през 2025 г. Висока е 90 м и до върха ѝ има 550 стъпала.

Спортна зала в същия парк. Зад нея е Стад дез Алп, стадионът на Гренобъл, на който тази година ще се играят мачове от Световната купа по футбол за жени.

За разлика от други френски градове, Кметството е в сграда от XX век.

На северния бряг на реката започва планината и над града е Музеят на Дофина. До него се изкачва по такива стълби. Още по-нагоре по склона има стар военен форт, до който върви въжена линия, но чак там не се качвах.

Разходих се до квартал зад гарата, за който не съм прекалено бял, вписвам се добре и не ми обръщат внимание, населен е предимно с араби. Под моста имаше и такива „жилища“ на новопристигнали.

За един ден не може да се види всичко. В неделя не може да се усети ежедневния му ритъм, но можеш да усетиш атмосферата и духа на един град.

Жо т’ем сон арм, сон виольонс, сон ‘ен (Обичам те без оръжие, без насилие, без омраза).

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  1. Like a bee butterfly flying over the flowers, like a clear spring flowing through the valley, in the memory of the memory, the life in the high school era is just like a colorful page, or a movement of cheerful notes.

  2. The road is long and steep. Maybe you are tired. You want to give up.If you want to reach the peak of the road smoothly, you can only hold back the tired feet, relax the complex thoughts in your heart, and keep going forward step by step. Believe a word: do not give up, only succeed.

  3. Some people have never had a chance to see each other. When they have had a chance to meet, they hesitate again. Some love has never had a chance to love, and when I have a chance to love, I no longer love.

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  5. There is a kind of love that is deeply in love, but can’t say it; there is a kind of love that obviously wants to give up, but can’t give up; there is a kind of love, knowing that it is suffering, but can’t hold back; Can’t take it back already.

  6. Some things turn around for a lifetime. I didn’t know each other at first, but finally I didn’t know each other. If love is just passing by, why bother here. Some love, had to settle each other, suddenly looking back, I can no longer tell.

  7. There is a kind of love that obviously wants to give up, but can’t give up; there is a kind of love, knowing that it is suffering, but can’t hold back; Can’t take it back already.

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