Фуа (Foix)

Фирмата, за която карам голямото бяло МПС, има сключен договор с фабриката в Бургос на една от големите марки за безалкохолни напитки (не е любимата ми, другата), които произвеждат и други неща, примерно чипс. И с този чипс имаме постоянни курсове до няколко дестинации във Франция и Италия. И по пътя за Италия, минавайки през Франция, когато при Байон се отклониш за Тулуза, по табелите започва да се появява името Фуа, наравно с това на Тулуза. Оставах с впечатлението, че това е, ако не чак толкова голям, то поне достатъчно голям и важен град. За важен, се оказа важен, но с деветте си хиляди и осемстотин жители не може да мине за голям.

На едно връщане от Италия реших да направя седмичната почивка в Тулуза, намерил съм си едно място за паркиране в източната промишлена зона, на 500 м от гара на регионалните влакчета. Общувам постоянно само с един от колегите ми, той е най-младия във фирмата, ’85-и набор, с останалите само, ако се налага. Та той в същото време правеше същия курс, който е до Ноале в Италия, село на двадесетина километра северно от Венеция. По това време във Венеция течеше ежегодния карнавал. Пристигнал в петък вечерта и трябва да стои там до понеделник, ужас, скука, кошмар за шофьорите. За да не споменавам име, ще нарека колегата Гуапо, обажда ми се: “Егати, требва да висим тука до понеделник, че умрем от скука, требва филми да гледам.” Казвам му: “Гуапо, в Ноале има гара, на 15 мин пеша е от теб, влаковете са на половин час, за 25 мин си във Венеция, сега е карнавала там, пълно е с хора, всички са маскирани, има сцени, музика, разходи се, билета за влака е около 4 евро.” Единственият въпрос, който ми зададе беше: “А дали ще намеря нещо за е**** (нецензурна дума, означаваща секс)”, на което аз му се развиках: “Ей, само това ви е в главите на шофьорите, боба, леба и да е** (същата нецензурна дума), ходи виж малко свят, разходи се, смеси се с хора малко.“ В събота сутринта беше хванал влака, излизайки от гарата във Венеция ми звъни: “Леле, леле, леле, тука има повече хора от София, бе…” В събота не беше успял да стигне даже до площад Сан Марко, Венеция си е лабиринт, беше се уморил от ходене, все забравям, че хората не могат да ходят като мен. В неделя беше повторил, беше отишъл до Сан Марко, после се беше загубил, но накрая благополучно намерил гарата и ми се обажда: “Еее, па така с разходка времето минава неусетно, супер е.“ Е какво разправям аз, но „старите кучета“ свикнали на „тежката“ работа, да чакат без да мърдат никъде, не вярват, че работата е лека и им дава възможност да видят Европа и да си разширят малко мирогледа. За тях шанс няма, но колегата Гуапо се запали да разглежда. На един човек да отвориш очите, си свършил добра работа. Аз хванах влака за Фуа и след около час бях там. Влакът продължава до градче близо до Андора, но не влиза в нея. Французи и испанци ходят в Андора на ски, интересно е да се види през този сезон, краят на февруари, на покривите на колите заедно със ски или сноуборд и сърф.

Първото нещо, което търся във всеки град е Туристическия офис. Според информацията в гугъл трябваше да работи в неделя до 18:00 часа, но това се оказа заблуда, не работеше.  И така без карта забродих по улиците на града.

Площадът до Туристическия офис, окастрените дървета, гълъби, по пейките почиващи пенсионери, деца. А аз започвам да търся информация, да живее мобилният интернет. Споменах, че Фуа не е голям град, но е важен, център е на департамент Ариеж в Южна Франция, регион Окситания, като дори не е най-малкият град център на департамент, има и по-малък от него, той е втори. Намира се на 85 км южно от Тулуза, на автомобилния път към Андора. Споменавал съм преди, че департаментите обикновено носят имената на реките, които минават през тях, та през Фуа тече река Ариеж (Ariège), а в града в нея се влива и река Арже (Arget).

Кметството. От което и по-широко място да снимаш, винаги в кадъра попада и Шато дьо Фуа, което заема хълма в средата на града. На негово място още римляните построили форт. Предполага се, че града е основан от Карл Велики с построяването на абатството на Сен Волусиен през 849 г. С построяването на абатството започва да се развива градският живот, който достига върха си през XIV век.

Насочвам се към главната забележителност, Шато дьо Фуа. То е било дом на графовете на Фуа.

Запазени средновековни къщи в центъра на града.

В неделя няма много местни по улиците, повечето хора са туристи, спрели за обяд във Фуа на път към планинските курорти на Андора. Вижда се на снимката градоустройственото решение за споделени улици между пешеходците и автомобилите, постлани с тротоарна настилка, и с отделени с оградки участъци.

Хълмът е надвиснал над града, настройвам се да снимам от стените на шатото…

Но ме посреща тази табела, която е само на френски, но думата „fermé“ ми е много добре позната, означава затворен. С удоволствие очакват нашата среща през юни 2019 г., пише още на табелата. Разочарован съм, но продължавам.

Снимах си поне табелата с информацията за шатото. Само на френски е, но аз нали съм полиглот, не е чак такъв проблем. Шато дьо Фуа е построено на стратегическо място, хълмът около реките Ариеж и Арже, на запад от центъра на града. Било е дом на графовете на Фуа. По-голямата част от него е построена от XII до XIV векове. Била е силна крепост. През 1840 г. е обявена за исторически паметник, но до 1864 г. се е ползвала за затвор. Има интересни готически елементи по кулите, които не можах да видя на живо, но юни не е далече, явно ще се връщам пак тук.

Тесните и ниски тунели, през които от една улица излизаш на друга.

Църквата на абатството Сен Волусиен, около което е възникнал градът. Изграждането ѝ е започнало през 1104 г., след като абатството е било превзето и е решено да се построи църква за съхранение на мощите на светеца. По време на религиозните войни, католици – хугеноти, абатството е разрушено и мощите са изгорени. През 1609 г. започва реконструкция, която е завършена чак през 1670 г. От оригиналната църква е останал един портал и основите на корабите, забравих да спомена, че църквата е трикорабна. В църквата има орган, монтиран през 1869 г. и основно възстановен през 2007 г. За съжаление и църквата беше затворена, и не съм го видял с очите си, само преразказвам какво научих от гугъл.

Срадата на префектурата на департамент Ариеж, която е залепена за църквата.

Реших, че като не мога да разгледам шатото, което стърчи над града, поне да го обиколя от всички страни.

Река Арже.

От западната страна на хълма.

Сградата на Кес д‘Епарн (Спестовната каса).

На кръговото пред спестовната каса.

Паметник-чешма на Габриел Форе (Gabriel Fauré), композитор, органист, пианист и преподавател, роден в близкия град Памие (Pamiers).

Във всички по-малки френски градове срещам такива покрити площадчета, на които се организират празници и пазари.

Пощата. По стила на сградата предполагам, че е строена в началото на XX век.

Паметник на загиналите жители на Фуа в Голямата (първата световна) и Втората световна война.

Река Ариеж. Патриотарите в България постоянно тръбят, че сме единствената страна отвсякъде обградена от собствени територии, което само показва непознаване на европейската история. Из цяла Европа народи и територии преливат от една държава в друга. Гербът на Фуа, който идва от графовете на Фуа, е щит с червени и златни ивици, каквото е и знамето. Същите елементи ги има и на знамето и герба на Каталуня, Андора, Арагон.

Може да е малък град, но вече е стъпил здраво в XXI век със зарядна станция за електромобили.

В центъра има и нови сгради, но трябва да се измисли нещо за контейнерите за разделно събиране на отпадъци, винаги са на места развалящи ми снимките.

В историческия център на града на всяка улица има табела с историята на улицата, датировка на построяването на по-важните сгради, за съжаление са само на френски, а повече от една табела да чета на френски ми идва в повече.

Уличките покрай хълма с шатото. По време на войните между католици и протестанти, освен абатството е разрушен почти целия град. През 1582 година е възстановен от католиците, а през 1589 г. графът на Фуа, Анри Наварски е коронован за крал на Франция като Анри IV, наречен по-късно Велики. Град По, където е роден Анри IV e на около 200 км западно от Фуа.

И поглед от другата страна на същото място. Това е улица Гран Дюк, част от задължителната туристическа обиколка.

И пак се връщам на улиците и настилката им. Вертикалната планировка, отводняването, качеството на работата, материалите са на по-високо ниво от в една европейска столица на 2000 км по на изток.

Площад Жорж Дютил, кръстен на бивш кмет на Фуа. Едва ли някой ще кръсти площад на Фандъкова.

Черен лебед – фонтан.

Паркчето зад туристическия офис. Около града има и интересни планински маршрути, но един следобед не стига.

И отново река Ариеж с надвисналите над нея сгради и Пиренеите на хоризонта. Снимката е от моста, който води към гарата, това е винаги посоката в края на разходката. Целта ми никога не е да видя и науча всичко за един град, но за един следобед, доколкото можах, се запознах с още един европейски град.

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